England used to mark the occasion with an official half-day, working until 11am, and then after church the rest of the day was taken off to scoff pancakes. How brilliant is that?
In Scotland a Festy cock, a pancake shaped meal patty, and also a cockerel substitute, is baked in the hot ashes of a mill kiln to mark Shrovetide. In Hawaii the day is known as Malasada day and the slightly more appetising sweet fried doughy malasada's are made to use up butter and sugar from the plantations (I'm there!). Closer to home in Olney, Buckinghamshire, the residents have a Pancake race. This tradition dates back to 1445 and is run by the women of the town in memory of a cook who, on hearing the Shriving Bell, ran out of the house, still in her headscarf and apron, arriving at church still clutching the frying pan she had been using to make pancakes. (Has cooking or baking ever been so habitual that you start something else without noticing you're driving? Only me then.) AND, the prize for the fastest lady in the pancake race............? a kiss from the Verger.  This day has some flippin’ hot heritage.

In the Herbert house, this special tiny Tuesday seems to spring up on us, and like the first snowdrop, quietly heralds a new season. We love to make a triple batch and pile them high on a big plate and serve them still steaming, to play the part of an edible scroll to a veritable smorgasbord of delicious savoury and sweet fillings.

The use of sourdough gives the pancakes a delightful depth of flavour that works really well with both dinner and pudding courses. Some sourdough regimes sourly suggest you pour surplus dough down the sink. Not anymore; let a surfeit of sourdough spark a pancake party. Great any time of year, guaranteed.

Now you can't beat the classic topping of lemon and sugar but I think there is no harm in mixing things up a bit. If your going to have an epic pancake session a bit of verity goes down well. In these cold days I long for the warming comfort of smoked fish, with creamy leeks and cheese. Here is a fun little number that propels the humble pancake to new heights.